Ultimate Surf Terms Glossary: Essential Surfing Vocabulary Explained
Entering the surfing world can be quite intimidating. First, you need to understand the surf basics, its rules and the equipment that you need. Second, when you sit with surfers you discover that they speak a totally new language.
Below are some cues to start understanding this new language. Don’t forget, the best surfer is the one having the most fun !
The Swell -
Is formed by the wind. We distinguish the wind swell near the shore and the ground swell formed at high sea.
Note that waves formed at high sea are more consistent and have more energy, which means better surf.
The swell period -
Is determined by the time in seconds between waves. If the swell period is big, it means the waves will be big too.
Under 10 seconds, be sure to find small waves on the surf spot.
The swell orientation -
Is the direction from which the swell is coming and it is directly related to the beach you want to surf. For example, if the beach is facing west, the best swell orientation should be west. Thus, the swell will arrive at your surf break without obstacles.
Waves -
Right : a wave breaking towards the right from the point of view of a surfer riding the wave.
Left : a wave breaking towards the left from the point of view of a surfer riding the wave.
Wind -
Onshore : winds blowing from the ocean to the shore. Strong onshore winds will flatten the waves, so it creates bad surf conditions.
Offshore : winds blowing toward the ocean from the land. Offshore winds usually mean clean surfing conditions because the waves are well formed.
Bottom - When the swell reaches the beach, the water is pulled up by the bottom. Thus, the shape of the bottom determines if the waves can be surfed. The bottom can be divided in 2 categories : point breaks or beach breaks.
Point Breaks - Formed of reef, rock or pebbles. Known to be more consistent because they are less affected by the movements of sand. In this case, the waves always break at the same place which makes it easier to know where to position and read waves. Nevertheless, point breaks are also known to be often crowded and dangerous for our skins.. surf shoes are not sexy but can be life-saving.
Beach Breaks- These bottoms change often due to sand’s variation. Rather from winter storms, summer flats, tide, ect., never expect to find the same waves. Pretty difficult to read and position yourself, but with time and patience nothing is impossible !
Basic Manoeuvres -
Bottom Turn
It consists of turning at the base of the wave giving the surfer more speed to go up the wave. Don’t forget to look at the base of the wave, when you reach the base : look to the top of the wave. The look influences your move.
Trimming
Is what makes the surfer increase his speed. It consists of moving up and down the wave to increase his speed. Basically the weight changes quickly between toes and heels.
Top Turn
Is a transition maneuver. It consists of a curve on top of the wave, the surfer is then progressing to the next session. During this maneuver, the surfer is changing his gravity center to the front. We often see surfers placing their chest on their front knee and bending their legs to follow the move.
Turtle Roll
To pass the breaking area with a big board and with less effort, you can rotate the board. The fins are on top and your body under water the time the waves pass on you. Don’t do it in a hurry, breathe deeply and come back quickly on your board to paddle outside.
Duck Dive
The surfer uses the weight of his body and dives with the board below the water. Choose the right moment and push your body to the front of the board to push the nose of the board under the water. Once the waves are above you, pressure the tail with your foot to make the nose come up and start paddling again.
To go further and check deep dive into the surf condition have a look to these sites. :
Surfline
The Surf Tribe
SurfToday
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